With the opening of Pantarul in May 2014, the rather sleepy restaurant scene in Dubrovnik started to wake up. Worldwide, the concept is a fairly common one: a menu which is changed according to seasons, a strong emphasis on using fresh and locally sourced produce, and a creative approach which combines traditional elements with the influences international cuisine. The only question was whether the relatively quick success of this place would last, but after almost two years of being in the business, it seems that this restaurant, located far from the crowds of the Old City, has managed to keep its popularity, not only with tourists, but with locals alike. In the height of the tourist season you will need to book a table at least three days in advance.
Restaurant Pantarul (and ‘pantarul’ means ‘fork’ in the Dubrovnik dialect) is a dream come true for the three of its co-owners. Two of them, Đuro Šiljug and Milan Vasić, have a long professional experience in the hospitality industry. While working in renowned Dubrovnik restaurants and on cruise ships, they learned all the tricks of the trade which they use in their everyday work and management of Pantarul with great dedication. This experience can be felt in their approach to their guests who are always welcomed with a sincere smile on their faces as well as in the professional and unobtrusive, yet friendly service throughout the meal.
The third co-owner is Ana-Marija Bujić, the author of the Croatian food blog Da mi je nešto slatko… (Croatian for ‘Sweet Cravings’) which she has been writing since 2007 and the author of the cookbook ‘What’s Cooking in Dubrovnik’, a cookbook in English featuring 120 traditional recipes from the Dubrovnik area. The cookbook won the prestigious Gourmand International Award in the bloggers’ category. The combination of Milan Vasić’s and Đuro Šiljug’s experience combined with Ana-Marija Bujić’s slightly different view of gastronomy has resulted in a menu and a concept which have both turned out to be a true hit with the locals in Dubrovnik and this is precisely what the owners are proud of the most. ‘In a tourist destination such as Dubrovnik it is easy to attract tourists, but the real challenge lies in having regulars who will return time and time again, from week to week,’ says Đuro Šiljug.
When you enter the restaurant, you will be met with a contemporary feel, pastel colours, relatively strict lines and the absence of the usual traditional Dalmatian décor. However, by no means does this mean that the space is cold. To the contrary, the smooth music in the background, warm and intimate lighting, friendly service and a lively atmosphere all make for a relaxed and casual feel. But all the décor would be irrelevant if the dishes were not carefully thought-out, prepared to the highest quality standards and meticulously plated. And Pantarul’s food fits this description which has enabled this restaurant to not only be popular during the summer months, but also to have a loyal winter clientele.
The menu is changed three times a year: at the beginning of April, July and October and they insist on the use of seasonal produce so there are no zucchini or bell peppers in the middle of winter. The choice of dishes is limited to four to five cold and hot starters respectively (the pan-seared foie gras and fish tartar are a must), two risottos and two pastas as well as four meat dishes and four fish dishes. Ox cheeks accompanied by a celery purée and a fennel salad are one of their best-sellers, just like the gourmet burger which is served in a homemade bun and dressed up with Cheddar and caramelized onions. Their returning guests can always find something new on the menu because the dishes offered on the so-called tapas menu changes every ten days and the dishes are designed in such a way to be easily shared, which allows the guests to try out more dishes than they would if they were served in the classical three-course way.
If we add homemade bread and top-notch olive oil, a not too extensive but extremely well-designed wine list featuring local wines (it was designed by Klaudio Jurčić, one of the best Croatian sommeliers), a selection of daily desserts and a very good value-for-money ratio, we can only hope that Pantarul will keep its quality and continue stirring the imagination of its guests.

Restaurant Pantarul
Kralja Tomislava 1, Dubrovnik, Croatia
www.pantarul.com

Text: Hrvoje Petrić
Photography: Marko Marinković